Kimino was covered with snow as we descended from Machiko's
Jan 13-15
A fieldwork at Machiko Kuroda's Minka (farmhouse) in Kimino - working so hard, weeding, slashing vines, restoring trails and giving a good tidy up to the property. We also planted 5 chestnuts trees - so in 3 years time, we all should be back to taste the fruits of hard work! Machiko, a quilt artist, purchased this 90 year old house about 10 years ago. It was a major orchard, which had closed about 3 years before the purchase. She said her responsibility to this place was 'simply because she witnessed it' - perhaps that applies to all of us being on this planet today. Shima-san, a tea master, demonstrated tea and the significance of Inyo Gogyo (5 qualities of Ying and Yang - wood, fire, earth, metal, water), which is the base of many aspects of Japanese culture and influence harmony/balance of the world. Tea includes all 5 elements. Tea cakes, which we enjoy having tea, are to be enjoyed with all five senses, including the sound eg a sugar frosted green cake is called 'Snow on pine leaves" so we enjoy the imaginative sound of snow falling on pine trees. Shima-san explained that all these stories are becoming less known in Japan, including Go Sekku (5 seasonal dates), Jan 1, March, 3, May 5, July 7 and Sept 9 observed in Japanese life.
Jan 12
At Wakayama Uni, we were welcomed by the students from Intercultural Communication class, who organised a small party. Salisbury group introduced their university, their major and interests. Nishida-san from the prefectural office kindly brought us ume juice. The Japanese students also brought snacks and drinks to share. After the class, we were invited to a tea ceremony, where students explained the meaning of tea and everyone had a chance to taste and make tea.
Jan 11
The morning started with a very crisp - 10 degrees! but the day was sunny with blue sky. After a morning service at 7 and breakfast, we set out to a guided tour, lead by Yasu. Okuno-in was closed due to snow, but we were able to visit Kukai's mausoleum (Gobyo) and observed serving of meal at 10:30. The ritual is conducted everyday at 6am and 10:30am with a service that follows. Today the menus vary, even including Western style meals! It's also great to know that Buddha is concerned about the the climate change. After a free afternoon to explore the Koya more, we board bus home at 4. On the way home, we were able to stop at Nyu-tsu-hime Jinja, where Nyu-tsu-hime, the sister of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu Omikami is enshrined. The remote shrine is also part of the world heritage.
Jan 10
Koyasan, the headquarter of Shingon Buddhism, is a temple town up on a 900m mountain. The trail leading up to Koya is the Cho-ishi-michi trail, starting at Jison-in Temple where Kukai's mother resided, as women were not allowed in Koya until late 19c. Jison-in is in the town of Kudoyama (lit. 9 times mountain), as it is said Kukai visited his mother 9 times a month. The Cho-ishi is a stone marker that marks the trail every 109m (cho), starting with No. 180 at Jison-in to No. 1 in Koya. So the trail is approx. 20km. Accompanied by Yasu, who works at Koyasan Tourist Information Centre, we all completed the walk up to Tate-ishi-chaya tea house, the 13km point. 5 of us walked the rest of the trail, mostly covered with snow, and the rest took bus to the temple we stayed - Yochi-in Temple. Yochi-in (lit. cherry blossom pond) is one of the higher ranked temples in Koya, which allowed to carry imperial crest, 16 petal chrysanthemum. The Sho-jin Ryori (temple vegetarian meal) was rather a feast contrary to our expectation. The deep sound of temple bell at 9 took us to a quiet sleep into the Koyasan night.
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